Sewing Machine Needles Explained: Types, Sizes and Which One to Use

The short answer: use a universal needle in size 80/12 for most medium-weight cotton and linen, a ballpoint or jersey needle for knits, a stretch needle for spandex and swimwear fabric, a microtex (sharp) needle in size 60/8 to 70/10 for satin, silk and chiffon, and a jeans needle in size 100/16 or 110/18 for denim. Change your needle after about every 6 to 8 hours of sewing, or sooner if stitches start skipping.

The needle is the cheapest part of your machine and the one that causes the most problems when it’s wrong. Here’s how to choose.

What do the numbers on a needle pack mean?

Needle sizes are shown as two numbers, such as 80/12. The first is the European size and the second is the American size; they describe the same needle. The higher the number, the thicker the needle. Fine fabrics need thin needles; thick fabrics need thick ones.

• 60/8 to 70/10: fine fabrics such as chiffon, organza, silk and lightweight satin.
• 75/11 to 80/12: light to medium fabrics such as cotton poplin, linen, jersey and most dress fabrics.
• 90/14: medium-heavy fabrics such as heavier cotton, twill and lightweight denim.
• 100/16 to 110/18: heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas and upholstery.

What are the main types of sewing machine needles?

• Universal: a slightly rounded point that works on most woven fabrics. The best all-round choice for beginners.
• Ballpoint or jersey: a rounded tip that slides between knit fibres instead of piercing them, which prevents holes and skipped stitches on knits.
• Stretch: designed for very stretchy fabrics like spandex, Lycra and swimwear fabric. It reduces skipped stitches on elastic fabrics.
• Microtex (sharp): a very fine, sharp point for straight stitching on silk, satin, chiffon and microfibre.
• Jeans or denim: a strong shaft and sharp point that pushes through tightly woven, thick fabric.
• Leather: a wedge-shaped point that cuts through leather and vinyl. Use it only for those materials.
• Topstitch: a large eye for thicker topstitching thread.
• Twin needle: two needles on one shank that sew two parallel rows, often used for hems on knit garments.

Which needle should you use for each fabric?

• Cotton shirt or dress: universal 80/12.
• Linen: universal 80/12 or 90/14, depending on weight.
• Knit T-shirt or jersey dress: ballpoint or jersey 75/11 or 80/12.
• Swimwear, leggings or spandex: stretch 75/11 or 90/14.
• Satin, silk or chiffon: microtex 60/8 or 70/10.
• Jeans and denim: jeans needle 100/16 or 110/18.
• Canvas tote bag: jeans or heavy-duty needle 100/16.

If you’re working with stretch fabric or satin, our guides to sewing stretch fabric and sewing satin go into more detail.

How often should you change your sewing machine needle?

A good rule is to change your needle after every 6 to 8 hours of sewing, at the start of each new project, and immediately if you hit a pin, hear a clicking or popping sound, or see skipped stitches, pulled threads or small holes in your fabric. A dull or bent needle can also damage the needle plate and hook over time.

How do you know if you’re using the wrong needle?

• Skipped stitches on knits: switch to a ballpoint or stretch needle.
• Puckered or snagged fine fabric: use a smaller microtex needle.
• Needle breaking on denim: use a larger jeans needle and sew slowly over thick seams.
• Holes or runs in knit fabric: the point is too sharp; use a ballpoint.

Quick needle care tips

• Insert the needle with the flat side facing the back on most home machines, and push it all the way up before tightening the screw.
• Store spare needles in their original pack so you know the type and size.
• Keep a labelled pincushion for needles that are partly used.

Frequently asked questions

What size sewing machine needle should a beginner use?

Start with a universal needle in size 80/12. It works well on the cotton and medium-weight fabrics most beginners sew first.

What is the difference between a ballpoint and a universal needle?

A universal needle has a slightly rounded point for woven fabrics. A ballpoint needle has a more rounded tip that slides between the loops of knit fabric, which prevents holes and skipped stitches.

What needle do I use for denim?

Use a jeans or denim needle in size 100/16 or 110/18, and sew slowly over thick seams.

How often should I change my sewing machine needle?

About every 6 to 8 hours of sewing, at the start of each new project, or immediately if the needle hits a pin or stitches start skipping.

Which way does a sewing machine needle go in?

On most home machines, the flat side of the needle faces the back. Push it all the way up before tightening the needle clamp screw, and check your manual to be sure.

Learn it hands-on in Trinidad

Reading about sewing is a good start, but most people learn fastest with a teacher beside them. Our Beginner Sewing Bootcamp is TTD 1,500 for three sessions at our Woodbrook studio. Machines are provided, no experience is needed, and you leave with a garment you made yourself. Not ready to book yet? Download our free Sew From Scratch Starter Kit and start practising at home.